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you can keep it way closer to your harness compared to a figure 8 and it comes undone very easily after repeated falls.An added bonus of the yosemite finish is that it's easier to untie when you get back down.The finish in your picture can fail easier in a ring-load situation. I’ll change a few things if I make another for myself. Sure you can do something retarded and end up ruining the system, but that's a completely different issue of the climber being retarded. User account menu. in the climbing gym i work at we require a double fishermans as a stopper knot because it guarantees you have enough extra tail for the figure 8 to be secure<cue circle-jerk about how it's "unsafe">As far as I am aware, your pictured knot is just a figure-8 with a tuck of the tail end, not a true Yosemite.I really like the Yosemite finish, especially while leading. Filter by flair. log in sign up. All Questions Allowed. when i was in a NOLS course they said the tail needs to be twice as long as the knot to be safe. Climbing. Otherwise you are giving people the impression the knot is unsafe if it is missing the finishing knot or if it comes undone halfway up a climb that you are now "unsafe".Technically yes, but practically no.My preference is to use a bowline. And yes we are scared of falling. A Yosemite Bowline "can be" a very secure loop knot when tied correctly, and is a version of the Bowline with the free end wrapped around one leg of the loop and tucked back through the knot, commonly known as a "Yosemite finish."
share. It's a finishing knot as it doesn't add to the safety of the system minus ensuring that someone has enough tail which is independent of the finishing knot. 80. Best way I have shown how to count it off and ensure you tied nicely (besides actually knowing the knot and looking at it)I never tie my safety knot "outside" the loop created, but that's just because I like having as compact a knot as possible.Yosemite finish - 3, 5, 8, 11, 12 - count from harness up.When we went to the local gym and she was getting belay certified they had her tie her own knot and count off. 918.

When I went to teach her the knot instinctively I showed her the yosemite. He mentioned that there is a study he could reference regarding this phenomenon.A properly tied figure 8 doesn't need any "safety" knot.I do the same for the same reason. He demonstrated to me an (admittedly, very unlikely) way in which during an inverted fall a figure-of-eight knot could catch on a bit of equipment, prior to it being fully tightened up and partially undoing.
r/climbing. Go back around the top (you'll have 3 strands wrapping around the rope going away from the climber) and then back through as it is there.I know Op's finish as a the New River finish, although the AAI link provided below refers to it as a standard yosemite finish.To know the right way, think of the Yosemite finish as a "Figure 9" knot. Created Jul 17, 2008.

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Climbing tips: How to tie into a harness using a figure 8 knot - Duration: 5:43. Online. Best way I have shown how to count it off and ensure you tied nicely (besides actually knowing the knot and looking at it) Yosemite finish - 3, 5, 8, 11, 12 - … Play.

Needless to say the guy was confused because he had no idea what a yosemite finish was and nearly failed her because he thought her knot was wrong.

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183. I had to pull over my climbing partner that works there to instruct their "checker". Lost GoPro at Vernal Falls. save.